I used to think very little of skate, which our university canteen served us as vilely overcooked fish strings. Then, l had an epicurean awakening in a Parisian restaurant. Nutty butter, full of tiny caramelized, salty bits and carrying soft and sour capers was poured liberally over perfectly cooked skate and potatoes, making a most memorable meal. So fast to prepare too! Time to call my Brit buddy Jamie to fix those offending French unis.
Skate wing with capers and brown butter on sort of bubble and squeak
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Recipe by: Busy:20 min, Total prep time: 30 min Serves: 4 |
Start with the potatoes: wash and chop them into 4 wedges (the smaller, the faster they cook). Steam for about 20 minutes or until cooked through. Chopp the broccoli into small florets and add to the potatoes in the last 5 minutes of steaming.
When ready, mix and crush coarsely together the potatoes and broccoli with the back of a fork and season to taste.
Once the potatoes are cooking, rinse the skate pieces under cold water and place them in a large frying pan with tall sides. Add the vinegar, bay leaves, salt and pepper and cover with cold water. Bring to the boil, reduce the heat to a simmer and cook for 9-10 minutes, until the skate is cooked through. The fish is ready when the flesh comes easily off the soft bones.
While the skate is cooking, chop the butter into even chunks and toss them into a large saucepan. Melt over moderate heat, stirring occasionally. After a few minutes, the butter will start boiling as its water content starts evaporating. Keep the occasional stir, the purpose of stirring being to break down into small particles the milk solids that are forming  during the heating process. Once all the water has evaporated from the butter, the boiling will subside and a lovely toasted, nutty scent will start emanating from the pan. Keep heating and stirring until the butter takes a deeper shade and the small particles turn golden. Take off the heat and allow the butter to slowly cool down in the pan. The particles will keep cooking in the butter and get slightly darker.
Mix the drained capers and 1 tablespoon of vinegar into the butter and reserve.
Serve the crushed vegetables on each plate with a piece of warm skate and brown butter and capers poured liberally over the fish and potatoes.
NOTE: Skate is an endangered species according to the Marine Conservation Society. Avoid eating skates and rays unless you are certain they are one of the smaller ray species (spotted, cuckoo, or starry rays) whose populations are considered relatively stable. Please refer to fishonline for more information on choosing the right fish.
Start with the potatoes: wash and chop them into 4 wedges (the smaller, the faster they cook). Steam for about 20 minutes or until cooked through. Chopp the broccoli into small florets and add to the potatoes in the last 5 minutes of steaming.
When ready, mix and crush coarsely together the potatoes and broccoli with the back of a fork and season to taste.
Once the potatoes are cooking, rinse the skate pieces under cold water and place them in a large frying pan with tall sides. Add the vinegar, bay leaves, salt and pepper and cover with cold water. Bring to the boil, reduce the heat to a simmer and cook for 9-10 minutes, until the skate is cooked through. The fish is ready when the flesh comes easily off the soft bones.
While the skate is cooking, chop the butter into even chunks and toss them into a large saucepan. Melt over moderate heat, stirring occasionally. After a few minutes, the butter will start boiling as its water content starts evaporating. Keep the occasional stir, the purpose of stirring being to break down into small particles the milk solids that are forming  during the heating process. Once all the water has evaporated from the butter, the boiling will subside and a lovely toasted, nutty scent will start emanating from the pan. Keep heating and stirring until the butter takes a deeper shade and the small particles turn golden. Take off the heat and allow the butter to slowly cool down in the pan. The particles will keep cooking in the butter and get slightly darker.
Mix the drained capers and 1 tablespoon of vinegar into the butter and reserve.
Serve the crushed vegetables on each plate with a piece of warm skate and brown butter and capers poured liberally over the fish and potatoes.
Fresh skate may smell a bit of ammonia, which is normal (the smell will disappear when cooking). This fish does not keep well in the fridge so cook it on the day, even if using it only the next day, as it will keep better cooked. Gently fry it on both sides for a couple of minutes to warm it up just before serving.
In the original recipe the fish is boiled then fried in butter (additional to the brown butter), but skipping this step make the recipe healthier and faster, while the taste is still beautiful.
If you keep heating the butter past the golden point, it will become dark brown and the particles will burn. They will give the butter a strong, bitter taste and make it dangerous for your health. Would you unfortunately get there, throw the butter away and start over.
In the original recipe the fish is boiled then fried in butter (additional to the brown butter), but skipping this step make the recipe healthier and faster, while the taste is still beautiful.
If you keep heating the butter past the golden point, it will become dark brown and the particles will burn. They will give the butter a strong, bitter taste and make it dangerous for your health. Would you unfortunately get there, throw the butter away and start over.
Ingredients
1 large skate wing or 2 small ones of 1.2 kg altogether, skinned and cut into 4 portions
3 tablespoons white wine vinegar
2 bay leaves
100 g salted butter
2 tablespoons capers in vinegar
Serve with:
New potatoes (Jersey Royal are in season right now)
1 large head of broccoli
Sea salt flakes and pepper
1 large skate wing or 2 small ones of 1.2 kg altogether, skinned and cut into 4 portions
3 tablespoons white wine vinegar
2 bay leaves
100 g salted butter
2 tablespoons capers in vinegar
Serve with:
New potatoes (Jersey Royal are in season right now)
1 large head of broccoli
Sea salt flakes and pepper
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